Three luxury fibers. Three different price points. Three very different performance profiles.
If you are sourcing for a brand, you need to know what you are actually buying - and what your customers are actually getting.
The terms cashmere, pashmina, and mohair get thrown around interchangeably in marketing copy. But they are not the same. Not even close.
Here is what every brand buyer should know before placing an order.
What Is Cashmere?
Cashmere comes from the soft undercoat of the Cashmere goat (Capra aegagrus hircus), primarily found in the mountainous regions of Inner Mongolia, China, and parts of Central Asia. These goats grow a fine downy undercoat to survive harsh winters with temperatures dropping to -40°C. In spring, the undercoat is collected by combing - not shearing - which is labour-intensive and limits annual supply.
Key characteristics of cashmere:
- Fiber diameter: 12–18 microns. Grade A cashmere typically measures 14–15.5 microns with a fiber length of 34–36mm
- Softness: Exceptionally soft and gentle against the skin. No itch
- Warmth: Excellent insulation. Cashmere fibers trap air efficiently, providing exceptional warmth despite being lightweight
- Weight: Lightweight and comfortable to wear
- Drape: Beautiful drape that creates an elegant, luxurious look
- Hypoallergenic: Generally considered suitable for people with sensitive skin
- Durability: Relatively delicate. Requires careful handling and cleaning
- Price: Premium. Generally more expensive than mohair due to rarity and labour-intensive harvesting
The global cashmere market is valued at billions, with premium fibers reaching up to $400–500 per pound.
Best used for: High-end knitwear, sweaters, cardigans, scarves, shawls, and luxury accessories.
What Is Pashmina?
Pashmina is often confused with cashmere - but it is not the same thing.
Pashmina comes from a specific breed of goat: the Changthangi or Pashmina goat, native to the high-altitude regions of the Himalayas in Ladakh, Tibet, and Nepal. These goats thrive at altitudes above 14,000 feet, enduring extreme temperatures from -40°F to 95°F.
The word pashmina derives from the Persian word for wool. In the West, it became popular in the late 1990s. Some consider pashmina to be a type of cashmere - specifically, the finest cashmere from the Changthangi goat.
Key characteristics of pashmina:
- Fiber diameter: 10–16 microns - significantly finer than regular cashmere
- Softness: Softer, lighter, and more delicate than regular cashmere
- Rarity: Produced in very limited quantities from a specific goat breed in a specific region
- Price: The most expensive of the three. Occupies the absolute apex of the cashmere hierarchy
Best used for: Ultra-luxury shawls, scarves, and lightweight wraps.
Important legal note for brands: Under the US Wool Products Labeling Act, "pashmina" is not a recognized fiber name. If your product contains pashmina fiber, it must be labeled as cashmere - not pashmina - to comply with FTC regulations.
What Is Mohair?
Mohair comes from the Angora goat - not to be confused with Angora wool, which comes from Angora rabbits. The name mohair derives from the Arabic term meaning "goat's hair fabric".
Angora goats are primarily raised in South Africa, the United States (Texas), and Turkey. They are sheared twice a year, producing long, lustrous fleece.
Key characteristics of mohair:
- Fiber diameter: 25–45 microns - significantly thicker than cashmere
- Kid mohair (from the first shearing, around six months): 22–28 microns
- Adult mohair: Can reach up to 40 microns
- Length: 5–12 inches (about 12–30 cm)
- Luster: High natural sheen - sometimes called the "diamond fibre"
- Strength: Strong and resilient. Resists wrinkling and maintains shape well
- Durability: Highly durable and resistant to wear
- Dyeability: Takes dye readily, resulting in rich, vibrant colours
- Texture: Can have a slightly fuzzy or textured feel. Coarser than cashmere
- Price: More affordable than cashmere, though high-quality kid mohair can still command premium pricing
Best used for: Outerwear, coats, jackets, blankets, socks, and garments where durability and structure matter.
Head-to-Head Comparison
| Feature | Cashmere | Pashmina | Mohair |
|---|---|---|---|
| Source | Cashmere goat (various breeds) | Changthangi goat (Himalayas) | Angora goat |
| Fiber diameter | 12–18 microns | 10–16 microns | 25–45 microns |
| Softness | Exceptionally soft | Softer than cashmere | Soft but coarser, can feel textured |
| Warmth | Excellent insulation | Excellent | Good insulation |
| Durability | Delicate | Most delicate | Strong and resilient |
| Luster | Matte finish | Natural sheen | High sheen ("diamond fibre") |
| Drape | Excellent | Exceptional | Good |
| Care | Requires careful handling | Requires careful handling | Easier to care for |
| Price | Premium | Most expensive | Most affordable |
Which Fiber Should Your Brand Choose?
There is no single "best" fiber. It depends on what you are making - and who you are selling to.
Choose cashmere if:
Your brand positions itself as luxury or premium
You are making sweaters, cardigans, scarves, or accessories where softness and warmth are the priority
Your customers expect a buttery, no-itch feel against the skin
You can price accordingly and educate customers on proper care
Choose pashmina if:
You are targeting the ultra-luxury segment
You are making lightweight shawls or wraps where fineness is the selling point
You can communicate the rarity and origin story to justify the price
You are prepared for the higher cost and limited availability
Choose mohair if:
You need durability and structure - coats, outerwear, blankets
You want vibrant, long-lasting colours that pop
Your price point needs to be more accessible while still offering a luxury fiber
You appreciate the natural sheen and textured look
Why Inner Mongolia Matters for Cashmere Sourcing
Inner Mongolia is not just another cashmere-producing region. It is the world's premier cashmere raw material base.
The region's Albas cashmere goat is a world-renowned breed that produces cashmere with an average fineness of 14.6 to 15.5 microns - well within Grade A territory. In the international market, this breed has earned the nicknames "fiber gem" and "soft gold," and has even won Italy's prestigious Cigna award.
China is the world's largest cashmere producer and exporter, and Inner Mongolia's Alpas cashmere goats are famous for producing the world's top cashmere.
What this means for your brand:
- Direct access to premium raw materials
- Shorter supply chains from fiber to finished garment
- Lower transportation costs for raw materials
- Deep relationships with herders and dehairing facilities
When you source from Inner Mongolia, you are not just buying cashmere. You are buying from the source.
A Note on Labeling Compliance for US and EU Markets
If you are selling in the US, the Wool Products Labeling Act requires that fiber content be accurately disclosed. Key points:
- "100% Cashmere" is a recognized label if the fibers meet the legal definition of cashmere
- "100% Pashmina" is not a recognized fiber name under the Wool Act
- Products containing pashmina fiber must be labeled as cashmere
- The FTC has specific definitions for cashmere regarding fiber diameter and other criteria
For EU markets, similar labeling requirements apply under the EU Textile Regulation. Always verify compliance with your legal team before finalizing labels.
Final Takeaway for Brand Buyers
Cashmere, pashmina, and mohair each have their place in a brand's product lineup.
Cashmere is the workhorse of luxury knitwear - soft, warm, and timeless.
Pashmina is cashmere elevated - rarer, finer, and more expensive.
Mohair is the durable, lustrous alternative that brings structure and shine at a more accessible price point.
Know what you are sourcing. Know what you are selling. And make sure your customers know what they are buying.
At Inner Mongolia Field, we have been manufacturing cashmere products for over 15 years. We work with brands across Europe and North America, helping them source the right fiber for their collections - whether that is Grade A cashmere sweaters, custom scarves, or full-range knitwear.
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Contact us to discuss your next collection. We will send you our fiber quality guide and grading reference - no obligation.
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Inner Mongolia Field Textile Products Co., Ltd | Established 2009 | Hohhot, Inner Mongolia | Private label cashmere manufacturer for EU and US brands
