Yarn Spinning Workshop
It's my pleasure to introduce our cashmere spinning workshop and show you the working process. We mainly producing Nm.1/15, 2/16, 2/60, 2/120,etc cashmere yarn. Whether it is a woven cashmere scarf or knitted cashmere sweater, blanket, etc., cashmere yarn is the basis of all cashmere products. We have very strict requirements on the cashmere yarn spinning process, quality control, inspection, etc. Because it is directly related to product quality, hand feel, and durability. So, this is really a key point for the whole production process.
I'm very excited to introduce the process of making cashmere yarn, how the raw material fiber has to be dyed, and spun into yarn, we mainly producing cashmere yarn with Nm. 1/15, 1/16, 2/26, 2/60, 2/100, and so on. Cashmere yarn is the basis of all cashmere products, no matter it is woven or knitted cashmere scarf, blanket, or sweater, it directly influences the production quality, hand feels and durability, yarn spinning is really a key process for the whole production. Every step in our workshop is fully controlled by a strict system, come with me for the major processes.
1-Raw Material
Alashan/Alxa League is northwest of Inner Mongolia, China, wind from the Siberian Steppes caused these regions to reach −30 °C in winter. The climate of there is one of extreme weather conditions, combined with rapid changes of temperature and strong wind. Due to the geographic location and severe climate conditions, goats in Inner Mongolia produce the finest, longest and softest cashmere in the world to protect themselves from the chilly cold and the stormy wind.
The herdsmen here still keep the traditional way of grazing. Original ecology, 100% eco-friendly and sustainable is the only way to follow for thousands of years. Cashmere generally shed during April, this precious fiber can be sourced by hand-combing, it doesn't need to be very difficult for this step. The goat will lose their hair spontaneously in this season because of the rising temperature.
2-Dyeing
The dye is modulated according to the ratio of the laboratory to dye the cashmere, and the sheep fiber has good moisture absorption, does not fade after dyeing, and has high color saturation. We use a low-temperature dyeing method of about 90-85 °C, and use environmentally friendly and pollution-free dyes. A color can not be dyed all at one time, at least divided into two times to ensure the accuracy of the color, the dyeing process in addition to the strict implementation of the dyeing process, to ensure the fastness to dyeing.
Usually, we use Pantone Guide as a color reference, it's easy for both of us to confirm the color in the different parts of the world. Of course, clients are able to send us their own color reference sample or choose through our own yarn color card.
Finished Dyeing. They are waiting for next step- Carding
3-Blending
Before carding, we need to finish blending process. This is the step to get the perfect fiber mix for each individual color according to technology sheet. It is a process to let fibers pass through opening machines which separate the fiber staples and remove any dirt. Lubricants are then added via an atomizer to facilitate fiber movement without excessive fiber damage.
4-Carding
The carding machine processes the mixture of the above and the pile (also called the wool) into roving. Due to the fine fineness of cashmere fiber, low strength, and loose fiber, it is advisable to use large spacing and small residual ratio to make the carding process more relaxed, reduce fiber injury, and at the same time according to the original engraving of light weight, small feeding, and strong twisting, according to the condition of raw materials and the number of spinning threads, the design is carried out to ensure that the coarse and precious strips are evenly dried, the surface is round and tight, and the strength is appropriate.
It breaks up the fiber clumps, and then arranges each fiber in parallel to create a web.
After we get the web,cashmere can be spun into roving, which are then winded on reels. But now they can't be called yarn, because they are very fragile and easy to break.
5-Spinning
We put the reels on the spinning machines. These machines are very large, and of course the output is very high. We can produce several tons of cashmere yarn every day. The machine increases the twist and strength of the yarn by moving it back and forth, then winding it on the shuttle. Now the strength of the yarn has been greatly improved.Here is the cashmere spinning machine which know as mule spinning. Usually knitting yarn is spun with this equipment.
Also, we have ring spinning system. This spinning method is common used in textile industry. It is the oldest spinning system, at least conceptually, but technology is not old. Modern ring spinning machine has a high degree of automation, far less labor than before, and higher production quality.
Its working principle is that the winding speed of the shuttle is faster than the reel release speed, which twists the thick threads into the thin yarn and improves the yarn strength.
Finally, we twist two strands of yarn together and wrap them on the drum, each drum is around 1 kg of cashmere yarn.
Yarn Spinning is finished. Here in the picture, it is Nm. 2/26 cashmere yarn which is usually used in knitting items.
