In its raw state, cashmere comes in three natural colors: white, grey (often called "green" in Chinese industry terminology), and brown (called "purple" in Chinese terminology).

These colors come from the goats themselves. Different breeds and different regions produce different natural fiber colors.

White cashmere

comes from white goats. The fiber has a light greenish-greyish-white color with no mixed colored fibers allowed. It is characterized by slender fibers, strong tensile strength, good elasticity, and a high net fleece rate. Inner Mongolia is the main production region for white cashmere, which is known for its superior quality and high fleece content.

Grey cashmere (referred to as "green cashmere" in Chinese grading)

comes from grey or brownish-red goats. The fiber is light greenish-greyish-white with a small amount of black hair allowed. Grey cashmere fibers are long but relatively coarse, with strong tensile strength and good luster. It is mainly produced in Inner Mongolia's Xilingol League and Xinjiang.

Brown cashmere (referred to as "purple cashmere" in Chinese grading)

comes from black goats. The fiber has a purple-brown color regardless of shade. Brown cashmere is characterized by fine, long fibers that are oily and delicate, with strong tensile strength and good luster. It can only be dyed to darker colors. The best quality brown cashmere comes from Inner Mongolia's Yikezhao League.

White cashmere is the most expensive of the three natural colors. Here is why.

1. It Takes Dye Better

White fibers require less dye to achieve a specific color compared to brown or grey ones. This matters because less dye means less chemical processing, which means less damage to the delicate fiber structure.

For example: To produce a pastel pink or light blue sweater, you must start with white cashmere. You cannot bleach brown or grey fibers to a light shade without severely damaging the fiber. Bleaching dark fibers badly affects the softness of the cashmere.

White cashmere can be dyed any color. Brown and grey cashmere can only be dyed to darker shades.

2. It Requires Less Processing

Dyeing is harsh on cashmere fibers. The process involves high heat and chemical treatments that can fundamentally damage the fiber's delicate structure.

White cashmere starts clean. It does not need to be bleached before dyeing - a process that causes additional fiber damage. Darker fibers require more intense dyeing processes, which means more damage.

The result: White cashmere that is dyed to a light or medium color maintains more of its natural softness than brown cashmere that has been bleached and then dyed dark.

3. It Has a Higher Grade

In the cashmere grading system, color is a key factor alongside fiber diameter and length.

White or light-colored cashmere has a higher grade because it requires less processing to achieve a wide range of colors. Darker or mixed-colored fibers have a lower quality grade.

White cashmere is sorted first - it is the most valuable because it can be used as-is or dyed to any shade.

Not necessarily. Here is what most buyers miss.

Fiber Diameter Matters More Than Color

The most important factor in cashmere quality is fiber diameter. Cashmere fibers of 14 to 16 microns are considered the best and most valuable.

You can have low-grade white cashmere with thick fibers (18+ microns). And you can have high-grade brown cashmere with ultra-fine fibers (14 microns). Color alone does not determine quality.

What to ask your supplier: What is the average fiber diameter? What is the fiber length? These matter more than color.

High-End Manufacturers Use White for Everything

Here is a trick most buyers do not know.

Premium yarn manufacturers use a high proportion of white fibers for all colors - not just light ones. Even when producing a dark navy or charcoal sweater, top-tier spinners start with white cashmere and dye it to the desired shade.

Why? Because white cashmere is softer and more consistent. The dyeing process is still required, but the fiber starts from a better place.

The difference is minimal when high-quality yarn is used. But if you are comparing a dark sweater made from brown cashmere versus a dark sweater made from white cashmere that has been dyed dark, the latter will generally feel softer.

Intensely Colored Cashmere Can Signal Quality

Counterintuitive, but true.

Intensely colored cashmere often signals higher quality. That means the yarn probably started off very clean in its raw (whitest) state and the dyeing process was top quality. Fibers that start off dark and are bleached, then dyed, are of a lower quality and duller in color.

So if you see a vibrant, deep color that still feels incredibly soft, that is a good sign. It likely started as white cashmere and was dyed by an experienced mill.

Here is the practical takeaway for sourcing.

There is a growing trend toward undyed, natural-toned cashmere.

Undyed cashmere ages significantly better than dyed alternatives because it avoids the harsh dyeing process that damages the fiber's delicate structure. Natural grey and brown cashmere offer beautiful earthy tones that require no chemical processing at all.

For brands positioning themselves around sustainability, offering undyed cashmere in its natural colors is a strong selling point. No dyeing means less water usage, fewer chemicals, and a more transparent supply chain.

Inner Mongolia is the world's premier white cashmere production region.

China's cashmere production accounts for more than 80% of the world's total, and almost half of China's cashmere comes from Inner Mongolia. The region's Albas cashmere goat produces fiber with an average fineness of 14.6 to 15.5 microns - well within Grade A territory.

When you source white cashmere from Inner Mongolia, you are getting:

• Fiber from the world's best cashmere-producing region
• Direct access to premium raw materials
• Shorter supply chains from fiber to finished garment
• Consistent quality with minimal processing required

At Inner Mongolia Field, we source white, grey, and brown cashmere directly from local herders. We work with brands across Europe and North America, helping them choose the right fiber for their collections - whether that is pure white cashmere for pastel collections or natural grey for undyed lines.

We also offer a full range of cashmere blends and pure cashmere options to help you balance quality with your target price point.

Does white cashmere have better quality than colored cashmere?

Yes - but only because it requires less processing, not because the fiber itself is inherently better.

White cashmere starts cleaner and can be dyed to any shade with less chemical damage. That means it generally feels softer and lasts longer than brown or grey cashmere that has been heavily processed to achieve a lighter or brighter color.

However, if you are sourcing dark colors or undyed natural tones, brown and grey cashmere can be excellent choices - especially if you are working with a manufacturer who sources high-grade fiber (14–16 microns) regardless of color.

The key is knowing what you are buying and asking the right questions.

• What is the fiber diameter?
• What is the fiber length?
• What is the natural color of the raw fiber?
• How is it being processed and dyed?

A good manufacturer will answer all of these questions honestly. A bad one will just say "it's 100% cashmere" and hope you do not ask for details.

At Inner Mongolia Field, we are transparent about our fiber sourcing, grades, and processing. We want you to know exactly what you are getting - so your customers know exactly what they are buying.